Where is everyone? While the Reykjafoss was almost guaranteed to have the Captain, Andrey, Albert or Chivas knocking about, the Dettifoss is deserted at night. The TV room is empty and the mess is perfectly quiet, apart from the radio, which always seems to be on, and playing fuzzy music to nobody’s ears. Hmm…

So we arrived in Reydarfjordur in the morning. A beautiful natural bay surrounded by volcanic snow-capped peaks. I tried to find somebody on board to ask how long we would be staying, but finding nobody, took it on myself to have a wander. I didn’t go very far – I wanted to keep the ship in sight, but bloody hell, Iceland is beautiful. I’ll be coming back here.

The food on board the Dettifoss is AWESOME. It’s the best food I’ve had since I left home four months ago, in fact, I find myself looking at my watch at half past five willing the big hand to go faster – food is served at 6pm.

I’m contenting myself reading a really nicely bound copy of the Works of Dashiell Hammett. Cracking stuff – ‘Red Harvest’ is a blood-soaked crime yarn that predates ‘A Fistful of Dollars’ by a good three decades. Good topic to pick for Mastermind and all – he only wrote five books. Easy!